Portugal (Lisbon, Porto, Sagres, Lagos) by Gautam Khattak
Last updated: March 18, 2017
Disclaimer: These are notes I’ve written or gathered from various sources. I have not experienced all things in this document nor is it intended to be a definitive guide.
Currency: Portugal uses the Euro
Conversion Tool: http://www.xe.com/ucc/convert.cgi?Amount=1&From=USD&To=EUR
General Tips
Tipping: It is customary to tip 10% of a meal but tipping is not customary on taxis. You may just round up the fare.
Data/SIM: Its easy enough to get a SIM card at the airport. It was €20 for a 30 day 3GB / 500 minute package from Vodafone. Just make sure they activate it and try calling a number because we had to have ours reset because dialing didn’t work.
Transportation
Getting around in cities like Lisbon and Porto is easy enough by foot or with taxi’s, Uber, and Metro so I don’t recommend getting a rental car for the days you’re staying in those cities because parking is scarce and expensive (between €20-30 a night it seems). If you are doing day trips, a car may be better but that being said getting to major places like Belem, Sintra and even Porto can be more convenient by train (and Sintra has even less parking than Lisbon). If you do rent a car, ask for the Toll package. It’s less than €2 per day and you don’t have to worry about any tolls while you’re driving (they’ll charge your credit card within 30 days). Note renting a car in Europe is a time consuming process. If you arrive during peak time, it could take 1-2 hours to get a car (even though you have one reserved).
Lisbon, Portugal
Touristy Destinations
Castelo de São Jorge is a Moorish castle occupying a commanding hilltop overlooking the historic center of the Portuguese city of Lisbon and Tagus River. The strongly fortified citadel dates from medieval period of Portuguese history, and is one of the main tourist sites of Lisbon. Read about the history of this medieval castle. You can easily buy tickets at the castle gate, though there may be a line. Also getting to the castle can sometimes be a challenge and it’s very uphill. There are a series of elevators that you can use to get up there.
- de Santa Cruz do Castelo, 1100-129
+351 218 800 620
Alfama District – Alfama is the oldest district of Lisbon and is a delightful maze of narrow streets, which lead from the Tejo estuary uphill to the castle. Contained within this ancient district there are some of Lisbon’s most historically important buildings including the Se Cathedral, Lisbon Castle, National Pantheon and Saint Anthony’s Church. Today, Alfama has shrugged off its grim status and become a young, trendy and fashionable area of Lisbon. A famous activity in the Alfama district is to ride on the number 28 tram. This narrow and undulating tram route is totally unsuitable for any modern trams, so historic Remodelado trams, which date from the 1930s, provide the service instead. The district has an intangible quality that needs to be experienced to be truly appreciated, and the best way to get to know it is to get a little lost
GK Editorial: After leaving the castle exit we headed straight into Alfama to get lost amongst the narrow roads and stairways.
Elevator de Santa Justa – One of the city’s best-loved landmarks and also known as the “Elevator of Carmo,” this extraordinary structure was built at the turn of the century by the Portugal-born French architect Raoul de Mesnier du Ponsard (an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel, explaining the structure’s similarities to Paris’ Eiffel Tower), to connect downtown to Bairro Alto (the lowest and highest points of the city). I believe if you have a Metro day pass you can use that to go up the Elevator (but double check that)
Rua de Belém nº 84 a 92, 1300 – 085, Lisboa
+351 21 363 74 2
Portugal is famous for its egg tarts. You can buy them everywhere in Portugal but the best I had was from the very birthplace of the egg tart – Pasteis de Belém. Belém is only 15 minutes from Lisbon. You can drive there or take the train but forewarning there is usually a long line (but it goes fast for takeout) so get there early. You can make reservations if you want to eat there but best make it a few days in advance or they’ll sell out. you want to Take a walk around the restaurant and watch the egg tart factory in action.
Belém Tower or the Tower of St Vincent is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the significant role it played in the Portuguese maritime discoveries of the era of the Age of Discoveries. You can go inside the tower and climb to the top – but it’s not for those with claustrophobia.
Day Trips from Lisbon:
- Sintra (See below) – Sintra is known for its many 19th-century Romantic architectural monuments, which has resulted in its classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Costa da Caparica – Go across the bridge from Lisbon for a full day of beaches
- Cascais – A cosmopolitan suburb of Lisbon
Shopping
Chiado – The biggest shopping district in town used to be home to the most exclusive local stores, but they’re now mostly international names like Zara and H&M. The main streets are Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, where you’ll also find the world’s oldest bookstore (Bertrand) and the city’s most beautiful jewelry shop (Tous – Ourivesaria Aliança).
Vasco da Gama Mall – Big shopping mall in Central Lisbon
Lodging
Recommend checking out the Parking situation at each because the cost and availability of parking may affect your decision.
+351 21 325 6100
Rua Nova do Almada, Nr. 114
This hotel is located in Santa Maria Maior which is a great area for old town exploring and shopping. It’s right next to the elevator and has a rooftop bar with a great view of the city and Sao Jorge Castle. The Elevador de Santa Justa is just next door, a few minutes’ walk away. This hotel is a little pricy but was a great location. Parking is expensive so I don’t recommend having a car here (or in Lisbon). The Baixa/Chiado metro stop and Rossio train station (which gets you to Sintra) is just a 10 minute walk away
Turim Terreiro do Paco Hotel
Rua do Comércio, 9
+351 210 492 590
I did not stay here but others on the trip did. It is cheaper than Hotel do Chiado and also in a great location. Just a 5 minute walk from the Arco da Rua Augusta
Shiadu – Where I stayed in Porto has several other locations in Lisbon that may be worth checking out.
Sintra, Portugal
From Lisbon to Sintra (on Sunday) There is a regular and inexpensive train service to Sintra that departs from Rossio train station in central Lisbon. The train journey takes 40 minutes, as it is a slow regional service but a return ticket costs only €4.30. The train service starts early in the morning and continues late into the night and there are generally 1-3 departures per hour.
Train Schedule: http://www.cp.pt/StaticFiles/Passageiros/1_horarios/horarios/PDF/lx/azambuja_sintra_completo.pdf
When you arrive at the train station in Sintra. There are several tourist buses you can choose from. For example, Bus 434: Circuito da Pena is a circular route that will make the rounds to the best sightseeing spots. A single loop ticket costs €5.00 and the ticket is purchased from the bus driver. Refer to the blue route at the following link. It will stop at each of the palaces below. https://www.cityxplora.com/media/uploads/products/city_sightseeing_sintra/maps_and_timetables/2016/city _sightseeing_sintra_bus_tour_map_2016.jpg
Sintra Touristy Destinations
Quinta da Regaleira – Quinta da Regaleira is an estate located near the historic center of Sintra, Portugal. It is classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The property consists of a romantic palace and chapel, and a luxurious park that features lakes, grottoes, wells, benches, fountains, and a vast array of exquisite constructions. The palace is also known as “The Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire”, which is based on the nickname of its best known former owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro.
GK Editorial: It takes about 2 hours to go through the entire park in its entirety. My favorite parts were the Finished and Unfinished Well.
Located in the Sintra hills, the Park and Palace of Pena are the fruit of King Ferdinand II’s creative genius and the greatest expression of 19th-century romanticism in Portugal, denoting clear influences from the Manueline and Moorish styles of architecture. The palace was built in such a way as to be visible from any point in the park, which consists of a forest and luxuriant gardens with over five hundred different species of trees originating from the four corners of the earth. You can buy 1 pass that gets you access to the Castle, Pena Palace and National Palace of Sintra.
GK Editorial: I thought this place was great to visit. Though there wasn’t enough time to see it all, we did manage to catch a nice sunset from the Palace. I would allot 2 hours to do a proper visit.
Castle of the Moors – The Moors castle is a classic ruined castle with high fortified stone walls, treacherous ramparts and massive battlements all of which can be fully explored. From the high vantage points there are wonderful panoramic views over the hills of the Serra De Sintra and the plains stretching west to the Atlantic Ocean. The Moors castle does not have the history of National Palace or the extravagance of the Pena Palace but it is still highly recommended and an enjoyable attraction of Sintra. The Moors Castle is open between 9:30-20:00 (summer season) or 10:00–18:00 (winter season). The last admission is 1 hour before the closing time and a typical visit lasts between 1 to 1.5 hours. The castle is open 7 days a week and this includes Monday when most monuments in Lisbon are shut. You can buy 1 pass that gets you access to the Castle, Pena Palace and National Palace of Sintra.
GK Editorial: We got into Sintra after 2pm so didn’t have time for this
National Palace of Sintra – The thousand-year-old history of the Palace underline the Moorish links of the craftsmen who built and embellished the Palace. It is the best-preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal, being inhabited more or less continuously from at least the early 15th century to the late 19th century. It is a significant tourist attraction, and is part of the cultural landscape of Sintra, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can buy 1 pass that gets you access to the Castle, Pena Palace and National Palace of Sintra.
GK Editorial: We got into Sintra after 2pm so didn’t have time for this
Porto, Portugal
GK Editorial: I really liked Porto. Such a quaint town to walk around (even though it’s the second largest metropolis in Portugal). I think two days/nights is enough to cover the sites but if you do like Café’ and Port wine life then you can always spend another. There is no need for a car here so if you want to train it you can but if you do have one there are parking garages.
Porto Tourist Destinations
São Bento Train Station – This is the city’s most central station, standing downtown just around the corner from the monumental Avenida dos Aliados. Around 20,000 magnificent tiles alluding to the history of transport and Portugal cover most of the atrium. They’re the work of artist Jorge Colaço and date from 1916.
Majestic Café – Belle Epoque-era cafe with ornate interior featuring carved wood, mirrors & chandeliers. Dating back to 1921 it is rated as one of the most beautiful café’s in the world. It’s always recommended to stop in for a coffee or hot chocolate.
Rua de Santa Catarina – Mostly pedestrian street is considered the center of Porto’s shopping district.
Igreja and Torres dos Clérigos – Clérigos church tower was the tallest structure in Portugal when completed in 1763 and as the main feature of the city’s skyline, ships used it as a guide when coming into Cais da Ribeira. It’s a remarkable baroque landmark designed by the Italian architect Nasoni, who also designed the adjoining church. It has become a popular tourist attraction for the aerial view of the city from the top (76 meters up — after a steep flight of 240 steps). Inside the church, the highlight is a polychromatic Baroque-Rococo marble retable.
São Francisco Church – What from outside looks like an ordinary 14th century Gothic and Baroque construction, has the most extraordinary church interior in Oporto and unquestionably one of the most fabulously opulent in all of Europe.
Livraria Lello – Rated as one of the most beautiful bookstore in the world, Livraria Lello opened in 1906 and has been the inspiration for acclaimed authors, a place for social gatherings, performances and a serene library for many of Invicta’s avid readers. Thousands of visitors from around the world go there to visit this neo-Gothic gem from the beginning of the twentieth century. People in Porto will tell you J.K. Rowling got the inspiration for the bookstore in Harry Potter from here.
Fonte dos Leões – A fountain in Porto with winged lions spitting water. Rumored to be a source for inspiration for J.K. Rowling when coming up with the Gryffindor house (but the lions are not Griffins because they do not have an eagle’s head). This is just across the street from Livraria Lello
Igreja do Carmo (Carmo Church) – The Carmo Church was built in the 18th century. It is a magnificent example of late baroque architecture with a single nave made up of elegant gilt carvings in seven altars by master Francisco Pereira Campanhã. Outside, an extraordinary side wall is completely covered in blue and white tile panels. This is just across the street from Livraria Lello
Port Tasting in Gaia – Across the river from Porto is Vila Nova de Gaia where all the Port cellars are located and do tours. I recommend booking tours in advance as all tours before 5:30 were sold out when we got there in the afternoon. There are many to choose from Ferreira (the only Portuguese one), Sandeman, Calem, Graham, Taylor, etc. If you don’t want the tour you can sit outside and just order a port or few.
Bolhão Market – The Bolhão Market is the most famous in the city. Dating back to 1850, with a singular structure with two floors, it is characterized by the monumentality of its neoclassic architecture. On the exterior, the market is divided into a large number of shops. Dedicated mainly at fresh products, its sellers are divided into different specialized sections, namely: fishmongers, butchers, green grocers and florists. And as every other place in Porto, Port Wine sellers.
Opening hours: mon-fri 07:00-17:00 sat 07:00-13:00
Confeitaria do Bolhão – Located across from one of the Bolhão entrances. This Porto establishment opened up in 1896 and serves delicious pastries and more. Worth a stop in for a bite!
Porto Street Art Tour – http://dspace.howest.be/bitstream/10046/807/2/Porto’s+Street+Art+Tour.pdf
Lodging
Casa dos Lóios by Shiadu – This boutique hotel was excellent. Super friendly and helpful staff. Rooms were small but cozy. The location is very central to walk everywhere in Porto. Shiadu has several other locations such as in Lisbon that may be worth checking out.
Dining
The food in Porto was fantastic. I recommend making reservations as many of the places are small and popular. Also not everything is open on Sundays or Mondays so make sure you check which.
| Cantina 32 | Dinner here was probably one of the best meals of our trip. The squid cooked in butter and coriander was unparalleled and the butterflied tiger prawns were delicious too. The Tuna tataky was good but not great. The chocolate mousse was the only disappointing dish. Book in advance, it is a very popular place |
| Tapa Bento | Also an amazing dinner. Beef Carpaccio was good and plentiful. Also had the Shrimp Risotto but to be honest I was stuffed by the time it came out. Book in advance, it is a very popular place. Closed Mondays |
| Brasão Cervejaria | When looking for the famous Porto sandwich ‘the Francesinha’ this is the place to go. Recommended by a local this restaurant did not disappoint. And thankfully they have a half portion of the delicious but engrossing meat sandwich, which goes down well with the Sangria |
| eLeBe Baixa | Did not go here but it was in the list of a few of the better places in town |
| D’Oliva | Italian, Did not go here but it was in the list of a few of the better places in town |
| Casa D’ouro | Italian, Mediterranean. Did not go here but it was in the list of a few of the better places in town |
| Verso em Pedra | Also known for the Francesinha but the locals recommended Brasão Cervejaria |
Sagres and Lagos (Algarve)
If you’re staying in Lagos and don’t plan on going around anywhere, you could get by on foot but if you want to see the lighthouse (and sunset at) Cabo de Vincent or check out Portimão then it is easy to get around by car and parking in Sagres and Lagos (at least where I stayed, check with your hotel) was plentiful and free (unlike in the North).
Fortaleza Sagres Fort – The Fortaleza Sagres is located at the southern tip of the Sagres Peninsular and this uniquely designed fort protected the town from raiders from North Africa. For visitors to the fort there are great panoramic views over the ocean and to the Cabo de Vincent. The views of the cliffs from all around the fort are stunning. You can also find the Chamber of Sound which is a unique experience.
GK Editorial: Really stunning views of the cliffs. There isn’t much to do in the fort but you can spend over an hour taking in the 360 degree view.
Ponta da Piedade – The Ponta da Piedade is possibly the most beautiful natural feature of the Algarve coastline. The shoreline is formed of heavily weathered cliffs that have been carved into rock pillars, natural tunnels and hidden grottos. The sandstone cliffs of misshaped angles stand at stark contrast to the deep turquoises and greens of the calm seas, and the entire region is simply stunning. There is parking at the point and you can walk down to the waterline in just a few minutes by stairs. You can view the numerous grottos and cave formations by boat. Tours last 30-40 minutes from Ponta da Piedade or 1-1.5 hours from Lagos. The price is around €10-15 per person for a shared tour and €20-25 for a private tour; the price should be negotiable in the low season. A more adventurous method to explore the area is by kayak, with prices starting from €25 per person.
GK Editorial: Got there just before sunset to catch a glimpse of the formations. If you’re taking pictures it gets dark in the cliffs so coming back during the day may be a good idea. The Sunset is beautiful though Cabo de Vincent still has the best sunset in Algarve.
Dining
D’Italia (Sagres) is located in the Mareta Beach Hotel and is a great spot. Super friendly staff. The Bruschetta was great, the Calzone was amazing and the Vegetarian Lasagna as delicious as well.
Adega Tipica a Forja (the Blue Door) – Amazingly fresh seafood. We lucked out getting a table at this famous spot at lunch, but I imagine gets packed for dinner. The restaurant is filled with locals which is always a good sign. The Bacalhau was the best we had and I had a Tuna steak that was beyond delicious and only €10. Best I’ve ever had!
Casa do Prego – Lucked out by getting a walk-in for this restaurant but I definitely recommend calling for a reservation. Staff was very friendly and portions were quite large.
Lodging
| Place | Website | Comments |
| Sagres | Mareta Beach Boutique Bed & Breakfast
– Stayed here |
Great location in Sagres (which is a very small town). Breakfast was very simple and unimpressive but there is an Italian Restaurant in this hotel called D’Italia which was delicious at dinnertime. Booked the Seaview room with a balcony which looked out to the sunrise perfectly. They also recently opened a new more upscale Mareta Beach House which is next door. Their pool is available for the Mareta Beach Boutique guests to use. |
| Sagres | Mareta Beach House | An upscale sequel to the Mareta Beach Boutique Bed & Breakfast. |
| Sagres | Casa Azul Sagres | Seemed also nice but Mareta was very good so I stick with that as the primary |
| Lagos | Cascade Wellness & Spa
– Stayed here |
Booked a one-bedroom apartment at this resort, which is pricier than the other choices but it was fantastic. Very large, very comfortable and a huge bathroom. The resort was also huge, with golf course and restaurants. The spa is not that amazing but they have a communal Jacuzzi, heated pool and sauna. Essentially this was like a timeshare villa. If you don’t need all the luxury or extended stay features (kitchen etc) you could stay in town. |
| Lagos | Villa Doris Suites Tripadvisor | Seems a bit hotelish but they have Sea view rooms for a decent price |
| Lagos | Casa a Sul – Bed & Breakfast | Downtown Apartment that has really good ratings |
| Lagos | Vila Mar Azul | Second choice in Lagos for lodging |
Itinerary Followed
GK Editorial: I’m glad we made the effort to go both North to Porto and South to Sagres/Lagos. The Itinerary would have been just about perfect but we encountered a few delays due to car troubles on two different days so we lost half a day in Porto and in Sagres. Also, because it was raining on Wednesday, we didn’t do any stops in the other towns on our way South. We also had a wedding that dictated some of our time, but if I had to do it again I would plan 2 nights in Porto before doing Lisbon. That way you start north, and it splits up the transit across two days (in case you consider 6 hours from Porto to Sagres a long drive) Then 2 days/nights in Lisbon + 1 day trip to Sintra. And all the nights in the south could be done in just one hotel (in Lagos) and do a day trip to Sagres (a must to see the sunset) to avoid changing hotels so often. You could even consider taking the train to Porto because you don’t need a car in Porto, but you’d have to look to see if there are any extra costs for renting a car in Porto and returning it elsewhere (Lisbon). If you plan to hit up other towns then the car is worth it.
Day 1: Friday – Lisbon
- Drinks at Hotel do Chiado Rooftop bar
- Dinner and Fado at Coimbra Taberna
Day 2: Saturday – Lisbon
- Castelo de São Jorge
- Walk around Alfama
- Lunch
- Wedding
Day 3: Sunday – Sintra
- Took the 1pm train to Sintra (40-minute train ride). We were a bit lethargic after the wedding so I recommend going much earlier in the morning.
- Lunch across from National Palace at Hokkey Caffe
- Quinta da Regaleira – Give it 2 hours
- Pena Palace – we only allotted 1 hour here but should give it 2
- Then we took an auto-rickshaw to get to the train station as it was a long bus line and we didn’t want to miss the train.
- Train back to Rossio station, Lisbon
- Dinner at LVSO Central (Italian & Portuguese)
Day 4: Monday – Drove to Porto
- Pick up rental car from Airport
- Drove to Porto
- Walked around city, sunset on the bridge
- São Bento train station
- Dinner at Cantina32 (So good!)
Day 5: Tuesday – Porto
- Majestic Café
- Walked down Rua de Santa Catarina for shopping (could have continued on to do Bolhão Market as well but had to go back to the hotel so moved that until Wednesday)
- Stopped over at Igjera dos Clérigos (didn’t go up the Tower)
- Snack at Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau
- Fonte dos Leões
- Igreja do Carmo
- Lunch at Brasão Cervejaria for the famous Francesinha sandwich.
- Walked down the artsy area which wasn’t really anything special
- Took a taxi to Gaia (otherside of the river) for some Port Tasting – Recommend booking tours in advance as all tours before 5:30 were sold out.
- Sat at Sandeman drinking port
- Crossed the bridge, and walked along the Porot embankment for cheaper touristy shopping
- Dinner at Tapabento (Yum!)
Day 6: Wednesday – Porto to Sagres
- Bolhão Market
- Confeitaria do Bolhão
- Drove down to Sagres (5.5 hours)
- Went straight to Cape St. Vincent to catch the sunset
- Dinner at D’Italia – So good! Pepperoni Calzone and Vegetarian Lasagna
Day 7: Thursday – Sagres
- Sunrise into the hotel room
- Walked around Mareta Beach
- Fortaleza Sagres Fort (1 hour)
- Ceramica A Mó – Ceramics Shop
- 6pm went to Cape St. Vincent to catch the sunset again
- Headed to Lagos (checked into Cascade Wellness Resort & Spa)
Day 8: Friday – Lagos
- Went to Pêra to go to the International Sand Sculpture Festival (1 hour)
- Drove to Lagos downtown
- Adega Tipica a Forja for lunch – Bacalhau and an amazing Tuna Steak
- Walked around Lagos for a few hours
- Back to the hotel spa
- 5pm Ponta da Piedade for sunset (go earlier if you want to have a boat ride)
- Back to Lagos for dinner at Casa do Prego
Day 9: Saturday – Lagos to Lisbon
- 9am Ponta da Piedade for a few minutes
- Drove back to Lisbon with a stop at Pastéis de Belém (30 minutes)
- Then back to Airport
Useful Links:
- http://www.fourseasons.com/lisbon/destination/things-to-do/lisbon-day-trips/
- http://www.touropia.com/best-places-to-visit-in-portugal/
- https://www.lonelyplanet.com/portugal/the-algarve/sagres
- http://www.algarve-tourist.com/index.html
- One day in Porto
Driving Durations:
| Start | Destination | Duration | Comments |
| Lisbon | Sintra | 30-40 minutes | 30 minute drive, 40 minutes by train (very cheap) |
| Lisbon | Porto | 3-5 Hours | 1 hour flight on RyanAir |
| Porto | Sagres | 6-9 Hours | 6 direct, but if you plan on stopping in other cities plan for longer |
| Porto | Faro | 1 hour flight | 10pm flight only |
| Sagres | Lagos | 35 Minutes | |
| Lagos | Portimão | 30 minutes | |
| Lagos | Lisbon | 2.5 – 3 hours | |
| Sagres | Portimão | 50 minutes | |
| Faro | Lagos | 1 hour |
Pena Palace
Castle of the Moors
Porto
Algarve Cliffs (Sagres)
Sagres – Cabo de São Vicente
Sunset from Cabo de São Vicente (Sagres)
Ponta da Piedade, Lagos